Tatler digs deep to understand why jewellery plays an important role in Asian wedding traditions (Photo: courtesy of Premiera Exquisite Jewellery)
Cover Tatler digs deep to understand why jewellery plays an important role in Asian wedding traditions (Photo: courtesy of Premiera Exquisite Jewellery)
Tatler digs deep to understand why jewellery plays an important role in Asian wedding traditions (Photo: courtesy of Premiera Exquisite Jewellery)

Asian weddings are steeped in rich traditions; Tatler explores how jewellery plays a pivotal role in the celebrations, symbolising love, commitment and cultural heritage

Wedding jewellery is deeply rooted in the customs and beliefs of Asian culture. But more than mere adornment, the pieces worn and given as gifts almost always have significant meanings.

In Hong Kong, the traditional gold jewellery given to brides is a cornerstone of wedding ceremonies. “The most iconic symbol [in wedding jewellery] is of course the Dragon and Phoenix,” says Davie Mok, director of business development and marketing at King Fook Jewellery, referring to a motif known as long feng. “The dragon symbolises the groom’s strength and power while the phoenix represents the bride’s grace and beauty. Together, they form the perfect pair made in heaven.”

The items featured in relief on this jewellery are symbolic of the couple’s aspirations for their marriage. For instance, the carp is auspicious because the Chinese word is a homonym for “advantage”. Additionally, there is a motif representing a legend in which a carp that successfully swims upstream and leaps the falls of the Yellow River transforms into a dragon. This embodies “progress, success and good fortune in the couple’s journey together”, Mok says. Meanwhile, the five-coloured rainbow cloud and auspicious cloud patterns represent “the five blessings of longevity, prosperity, health, kindness and a peaceful ending [or happily ever after]”.

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Tatler Asia
Max Lam, group general manager and ceative director of Chow Tai Fook jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)
Above Max Lam, group general manager and ceative director of Chow Tai Fook jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)
Tatler Asia
Chow Tai Fook High Jewellery necklace (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)
Above Chow Tai Fook High Jewellery necklace (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)
Max Lam, group general manager and ceative director of Chow Tai Fook jewellery (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)
Chow Tai Fook High Jewellery necklace (Photo: courtesy of Chow Tai Fook)

Mok highlights other auspicious symbols that appear on wedding jewellery, including the golden bat pattern, which signifies longevity and an abundance of blessings, as the Chinese word for “bat” is similar to that for “good luck”; the rose and peony pattern, which represents prosperity, as blooming flowers are believed to bring good luck; and the goldfish and pomegranate patterns, which are associated with fertility as goldfish spawn a lot of eggs and pomegranates are full of seeds.

Max Lam, of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery, says, “In the cherished tradition of a bride embarking on her new chapter with her groom, it is customary for the bride’s family to present her with gold jewellery as part of her dowry—gold [is] a symbol of wealth and prosperity.” This practice not only signifies well wishes for the couple but also serves as a form of financial security or emergency fund for the bride. “More adornments signify increased favour and blessings for the bride. Beyond its material value, the act of gifting gold jewellery [symbolises] heartfelt wishes for a love that endures like gold itself. The exchange of gold jewellery carries both commemorative and heritage value,” he says. 

Tatler Asia
Davie Mok, director of business development and marketing at King Fook Jewellery (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)
Above Davie Mok, director of business development and marketing at King Fook Jewellery (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)
Tatler Asia
King Fook Jewellery for Stenzhorn butterfly necklace (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)
Above King Fook Jewellery for Stenzhorn butterfly necklace (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)
Davie Mok, director of business development and marketing at King Fook Jewellery (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)
King Fook Jewellery for Stenzhorn butterfly necklace (Photo: courtesy of King Fook Jewellery)

The multicultural tapestry of Malaysia and Singapore means weddings often include a fascinating blend of traditions.

Meer Habib, group executive chairman of Habib Jewels, which opened in Malaysia more than 60 years ago, highlights the unique customs among the various ethnic groups. In Chinese weddings in Malaysia, the bride is often presented with a “Nine Treasure Box” filled with gold items, which may include bangles and necklaces. “Each piece carries auspicious meanings, wishing the couple a prosperous and harmonious life together,” he says. In the country’s Indian community, “The bride wears the most elaborate jewellery at her wedding, from maang tikka [accessory] worn in the hair, payal anklets, a layered haar necklace and mangalsutra neck chain; as well as a kamarband belt and bichiya toe rings.”

For Malay weddings, jewellery plays a significant role before the wedding. “Prior to the solemnisation ceremony, or akad nikah, there’s adat merisik, which is the traditional Malay way for arranging marriages. Typically, a simple ring is gifted from the mother-in-law to signify the family’s acceptance of the future bride,” he explains. For the engagement or adat merisik, more extravagant jewellery is presented. “The wedding ring or batal air sembahyang ring is gifted to the bride from the groom to mark the beginning of the married couple’s new life [along with] jewellery in gift trays, that can be a set of necklaces, earrings and bangles,” he adds. And while the wedding ring is traditionally set in yellow gold, Habib says, “White or rose gold rings are quite popular nowadays for modern brides.” 

This blending of traditions has led to a vibrant jewellery market where modern aesthetics meet cultural heritage. “Couples are increasingly seeking bespoke designs that reflect their individuality while honouring their roots,” Habib says.

Tatler Asia
Meer Habib, group executive chairman of Habib Jewels (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)
Above Meer Habib, group executive chairman of Habib Jewels (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)
Tatler Asia
Habib Jewels gold and diamond bangle (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)
Above Habib Jewels gold and diamond bangle (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)
Meer Habib, group executive chairman of Habib Jewels (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)
Habib Jewels gold and diamond bangle (Photo: courtesy of Habib Jewels)

Amanda Koo in Singapore, the founder of 19-year-old boutique jewellery brand eClarity, says, “Singaporean Chinese weddings are highly influenced by Teochew customs,” adding that the tradition includes giving the bride four pieces of jewellery. “We call it Si Jian Jin or four-point gold—earrings or er huan; a pendant or diao zhui; a ring or jie zhi; and a bracelet or shou lian”. She adds, “The more well-off the groom’s side of the family is, the higher value dowry the bride would receive. It’s also a time for the groom’s family to show off their status in the form of gifted jewellery.” And while, traditionally, the jewellery given was just gold, Koo says she has noticed an increase in Singaporean brides instead requesting “four blue sapphires or four rubies or pink sapphires,” she adds.

Koo, who also has a large Malaysian clientele, highlights the differences between Chinese wedding jewellery in Singapore, Hong Kong and Malaysia. “When selling to the [Chinese] Malaysian market, which shares close cultural ties with Singapore, it is important to note that weddings there are heavily influenced by Cantonese traditions, similar to those in Hong Kong. For instance, they incorporate elements like the long feng motif, which symbolises harmony and marriage. Additionally, a common wedding gift is a pendant featuring four pigs—one mother pig and three piglets—representing fertility and the hope for many children,” she says.

She adds that Malay weddings have unique customs, particularly in terms of the groom’s attire. “Men traditionally do not wear gold; instead, they opt for platinum or silver due to cultural beliefs that associate gold with luxury—their [Islamic] religious customs discourage the wearing of gold by men.” Typically, the bride will wear a ring made of gold, while the groom’s ring will be crafted from platinum or silver. 

Tatler Asia
Singapore-based Amanda Koo is the founder of 19-year-old boutique jewellery brand eClarity (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)
Above Singapore-based Amanda Koo is the founder of 19-year-old boutique jewellery brand eClarity (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)
Tatler Asia
Amanda Koo’s eClarity wedding jewellery set (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)
Above Amanda Koo’s eClarity wedding jewellery set (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)
Singapore-based Amanda Koo is the founder of 19-year-old boutique jewellery brand eClarity (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)
Amanda Koo’s eClarity wedding jewellery set (Photo: courtesy of Amanda Koo)

Thailand was once called Siam, which is an ancient Sanskrit word that translates to gold. So, it’s natural that without the precious metal Thai weddings would be deemed incomplete. The wedding ceremony, known as Phra Ratcha Niyom, is a beautiful celebration where jewellery plays a significant role in connecting the couple to their cultural heritage. The intricate designs often feature floral motifs and symbols of prosperity.

We spoke to Achiraya “Jib” Inkatanuvat, the fourth-generation heir and executive director of Premiera Exquisite Jewellery boutique located in Bangkok’s Siam Paragon mall. “In our traditions, jewellery forms one of the main parts of a wedding: the sinsord, or dowry,” she says. The groom must “show his sincerity to [the bride’s family] and that he can take care of her” by providing a dowry to the parents for raising their daughter.

The jewellery, which is presented alongside cash, gold and other gifts, traditionally features flowers which symbolise beauty, love, and fertility, Inkatanuvat says. Lotus flowers— commonly seen at Thai Buddhist weddings—represent purity and spiritual awakening, which are common motifs in the gold jewellery presented to brides, as are jasmine, rice grains and squash. Once the bride’s family has accepted the dowry offering and granted the groom permission to marry, the couple exchange rings, which are usually solitaire diamonds, symbolising their commitment to each other. This exchange marks the conclusion of the engagement ceremony, solidifying their bond and setting the stage for their future together.

Other jewellery worn during the wedding rituals, such as necklaces, bracelets, belts and brooches, are often made of gold and serve to adorn the couple while connecting them to their cultural roots.

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Tatler Asia
Asian wedding
Above A couple exchanging wedding rings (Photo: courtesy of Premiera Exquisite Jewellery)
Asian wedding

As Asian wedding customs evolve, there is one trend influenced by western customs that’s here to stay. Chow Tai Fook’s Lam says, “The diamond engagement ring has become an integral part of Chinese wedding customs, with couples placing significant importance on the weight of the diamonds in their rings.” Koo says, “Nineteen years ago, people were quite reserved in the Singapore market: a 0.5 or one carat diamond was very desirable. Now, the girls are looking for two, three or four carats, especially with the lab-grown diamond options”. Habib agrees, adding, “Some couples are also opting for coloured gemstones for their engagement rings.”

However, King Fook Jewellery’s Mok says, “Modernisation does not necessarily mean westernisation.” The Chinese wedding jewellery market has evolved, with pieces that allow for daily modern lifestyle needs becoming increasingly popular. Designs take on a balanced approach in translating the essence of Chinese art, culture and philosophy into inspiration that address “both meaningful blessing messages for the bride as well as aesthetics for daily wearing”, he says.

As younger generations seek to express their individuality, bespoke designs and contemporary aesthetics are gaining traction. This trend is evident in the rise of innovative designs that incorporate traditional motifs with modern craftsmanship, ensuring that the rich heritage of Asian wedding jewellery continues to thrive. As Mok says, “There is no perfect wedding jewellery. We feel that the key is for the bride to find a piece that reflects her personality and tell the story of their love affair.”

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