Cover Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri, whose Thai restaurant ‘Sorn‘ received three Michelin stars for the first time.

Supaksorn Jongsiri, better known as Chef Ice, has made history as the first person ever to earn three Michelin stars for a Southern Thai restaurant. His remarkable achievement elevates Thai cuisine to new heights, showcasing the depth and authenticity of Southern Thai flavours with unparalleled elegance and finesse.

“It still feels like a dream. I am deeply grateful for everything that has brought us to this point, from the people we've met, including the members of Sorn, to the farmers, gardeners, rice growers, and fishermen who enable us to create amazing dishes. I feel so fortunate to be born Thai because if I were cooking cuisine from another country, I probably wouldn't be able to compete,” says chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri, reflecting on his historic achievement of leading Sorn to become the world's first Southern Thai restaurant to earn three Michelin stars in the 2025 edition of the Michelin Guide Thailand.

Sorn earned its first Michelin star in 2018 “within the first four or five months of opening”. “I was surprised at how quickly it came, but it validated that we were on the right track,” chef Ice tells Tatler. The following year, he received two Michelin stars and maintained that prestigious status for five consecutive years before achieving the coveted third star this year.

“Initially, I was content with just one star, but once we got two, I aimed to go all the way to be remembered in history, something my children could be proud of,” says the 42-year-old chef and father of two.

Read more: Sorn chef-owner Supaksorn ‘Ice’ Jongsiri’s culinary journey began in his grandmother’s kitchen

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Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri

Chef Ice's real name, Supaksorn, is a name familiar to many Thais as it was used by his father, Supawat Jongsiri, a famous film director and screenwriter, as a pen name. His mother is the renowned actress Panadda Komaratat. Despite being born into a family of celebrities, young Ice found joy in spending time in the kitchen with his grandmother whenever he visited their family home in Nakhon Si Thammarat.

“At that time, no one was home. My mother had to go shoot dramas, so my grandmother took me in because she didn't want me to be alone. I grew up a lot there and would go back during school breaks,” chef Ice recalls. His grandmother, a retired teacher, became his first cooking mentor.

“I remember knowing how to cook rice since I was four or five years old, and making thom khem (a Thai stew) around the age of seven. Most of what I cooked were boiled dishes like thom khem and tom yum, because you can keep adjusting the seasoning while cooking, sometimes making it even more delicious. It's also safe. Later, I started stir-frying sataw (stink beans), probably when I was eight or nine. While most people consider pad kra pao (stir-fried basil) as their comfort food, mine is stir-fried sataw with shrimp paste,” chef Ice reminisces.

During his time studying Architecture at Northeastern University in the United States, chef Ice honed his cooking skills out of necessity. “I didn't learn formally; I cooked to survive,” he emphasises. In 1997, as financial support from home dwindled due to the Asian financial crisis (IMF), he was prompted to earn extra income by working in Thai and fine-dining restaurants. He also cooked Thai meals for his friends in the apartment.

“I would cook large pots of dishes like palo (braised pork) and khao man gai (Hainanese chicken rice). My friends would drop money into a jar; if they put in less, the next meal would be a bit subpar,” he laughs. “We used the money to buy ingredients in bulk from Chinese supermarkets in America because it was cheaper that way. We'd cook large quantities and share to make it cost-effective.”

Although he returned to Thailand armed with two degrees, a Bachelor of Science and a Bachelor of Arts, he pursued a master's degree in Innovation at Chulalongkorn University. Concurrently, he spent his spare time helping run a small Southern Thai restaurant his grandmother had opened in Prachaniwet 1 Market, named “Baan Ice” (which means “Ice's House” in Thai) after him.

“At that time, I was 27 years old. My grandmother had stopped cooking, and staff were few, so I seriously started helping at Baan Ice. By around 29, I began saving money and opened Baan Ice in Thonglor. A year or two later, we opened a branch at Siam Paragon, and we continued expanding,” chef Ice says. Today, there are seven Baan Ice restaurants in Bangkok.

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Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri

Initially, I was content with just one star, but once we got two, I aimed to go all the way to be remembered in history, something my children could be proud of.

- Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri -

One could say that Baan Ice served as chef Ice's training ground for mastering Southern Thai cuisine, as he juggled managing the business with cooking duties.

“I began to notice more food awards coming to Thailand, but the winners were often Indian cuisine chefs or foreigners specialising in Thai food. Back then, Thai cuisine was leaning towards deconstruction or fusion, with appetisers being fish or meat courses, and the meat was medium rare—Thai cuisine doesn't have medium rare. Then there was caviar and truffles; I felt it wasn't right. I started thinking about what fine dining would look like in our style,” chef Ice recounts.

The burning desire to elevate traditional Southern Thai cuisine couldn’t be fully realised at Baan Ice due to certain limitations, such as ingredient preparation, cooking time, and cost.

“Many things I encountered in the South couldn't be served at Baan Ice because of the cost and the nature of fine dining—it requires a lot of time,” he says.

“At Baan Ice, we make our curry paste and use fresh coconut milk, but at Sorn, we grate and squeeze the coconut fresh before service. It doesn't get any fresher. We also pound our curry paste fresh with a mortar and pestle, something we can't do at Baan Ice. Using charcoal stoves, mills, and other traditional equipment adds another level, taking it a step further,” chef Ice explains.

Tatler Asia
Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri
Tatler Asia
Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri

The joy of being a chef is seeing people happy when they eat, going home satisfied and full. It's the best job in the world for me.

- Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri -

Chef Ice opened the Southern Thai restaurant, Sorn, in May 2018. The name ‘Sorn’ comes from his eldest son's name combined with the suffix of his own real name (Supaksorn), similar to how his grandmother named Baan Ice after him. Additionally, Sorn derives from the word “sarana”, meaning a self-made person and a place of refuge, reflecting the idea of growing together as a team.

Chef Ice says, “We need to grow to become a 'sarana' for one another. Sorn had no investors and required a significant amount of capital. At that time, I had some savings. I asked my wife, and she said if we didn't do it, it would always be stuck in my head. So, we went ahead, and I gave it my all.”

The phrase ‘stuck in my head’ that chef Ice mentions refers to the idea that running a restaurant is never easy to break even, especially in fine dining. “Someone once said, ‘If you hate someone, tell them to open a restaurant. If you want them to die, tell them to open a fine dining restaurant,’ ” he laughs.

“It comes with lots of headaches and you can't live comfortably. But once you want to do it, with your idea of what Thai food should be and your own beliefs, it manifests into something like Sorn. I felt that if I didn't do it, I would regret it for the rest of my life. If it fails, it fails because our idea was wrong—end of story. We wouldn't blame anyone else. But it turns out we were right,” chef Ice laughs heartily.

Read more: Embrace and elevate: Chef Pam’s quest to honour her Thai-Chinese roots with Restaurant Potong

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Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri

One of the standout features of Sorn is its use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients from nearly every province in Southern Thailand, many of which are rare delicacies. These include Budu sauce (a traditional fermented fish sauce) from Pattani, sea cicadas from Phuket, Khao Hom Mali Khem Thong rice (a fragrant jasmine rice) from Nakhon Si Thammarat, and beef from Phatthalung, among others.

“Many ingredients are indeed disappearing because when no one uses them, the people who grow them suffer. For example, bird's eye chilies, which are incredibly fragrant, are used in our yellow curry. People say it's the best yellow curry they've ever had. We have to buy them at higher prices to encourage growers to continue. Sea cicadas can only be found at Mai Khao Beach in Phuket; they taste like a combination of fried shrimp heads and crab. We discovered many unique ingredients like tiger prawns, which were not shipped live before, but we requested it to ensure freshness. If prawns die, they get slimy. Phuket lobsters weren't sent to Bangkok alive before, but we arranged for them to be flown in fresh. Normally, Budu sauce (a traditional fermented fish sauce) is made from dead fish on a raft, which gives it a strong smell. However, our Budu is made from fresh fish intestines, eliminating the unpleasant odor. The beef we use is halal beef from cows over eight years old, as older cows have more tender meat and richer flavour,” chef Ice explained.

Each ingredient is flown in early in the morning, prepared from 10 AM, and ready by 5 PM, just before the restaurant opens at 6 PM.

“I do one service with 40 seats, which is a lot for fine dining, where some small restaurants have only 10-20 seats,” chef Ice said. “But I prefer one service because the food is fresh. If we did a second round, the quality would drop, and I would be exhausted and lose my passion.”

Chef Ice's dedication to sourcing and preparing the best local ingredients is a testament to his commitment to preserving and elevating Southern Thai cuisine. Beyond the authentic ingredients, the meticulous traditional cooking methods at Sorn are key to making each dish special. The use of charcoal stoves to distribute the heat, enhances the flavour and adds depth to the food.

“Modern technology and tools often make the flavour quite uniform; I feel like it isn't Thai food anymore. So, I went back to learn old cooking methods, studying recipes, and learning from fishermen. There's a Muslim village known for catching and preparing crabs excellently. When I asked for their recipe, they didn't share, so I had to stay overnight and help them in the morning,” chef Ice explains, summarising why he uses traditional techniques: "Firstly, no one preserves them; secondly, they taste better. What has been practised for a hundred years is different from what has been done for 10 years."

Tatler Asia
Above Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri

If it fails, it fails because our idea was wrong—end of story. We wouldn't blame anyone else. But it turns out we were right.

- Chef Ice Supaksorn Jongsiri -

Despite being a fine dining restaurant with three Michelin stars, chef Ice focuses more on the flavours of the dishes than on elaborate plating.

“Our food doesn't look beautiful; we don't add flowers or anything. We keep it as Southern as possible. Even stir-fried vegetables are on the menu because, in my view, a complete Thai meal must include boiled, stir-fried, curried, and fried dishes. We don't want to add too much, but we aim to make it taste better than usual. Technique and components are everything—attention to detail and care. We experiment a lot, like with our stir-fried morning glory. Even Chinese people say it's the best stir-fried morning glory in the world,” chef Ice remarks.

Being meticulous and ‘precise’ in every step (chef Ice mentions he has OCD), he gets upset when team members work carelessly. “I tell my staff that I have the right to be angry, really angry, if I find out they changed the recipe or cut corners without consulting me. I can taste it all,” he says.

However, he strives to maintain a smooth and pleasant working atmosphere in the kitchen because “if you cook happily, the food will come out well. If you cook under stress, sometimes your taste buds get thrown off and the food won't be good.” Chef Ice concludes by saying that the joy of being a chef is “seeing people happy when they eat, going home satisfied and full. It's the best job in the world for me.”

When asked if he's ever received negative comments, he says, “Not really, just complaints about how hard it is to get a reservation!” A good problem to have, indeed.

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