The international F&B community share solemn tribtues to the late Margarita Forés
Cover The international F&B community share solemn tributes to the late Margarita Forés
The international F&B community share solemn tribtues to the late Margarita Forés

In the wake of Margarita Forés’s tragic passing, members of the international F&B community express heartbreak and recall fond memories of the culinary icon

How do we navigate a world without Margarita Forés? Since news broke of the chef’s tragic passing on the 11th of February, chefs, food writers, and other members of the global F&B community have come face to face with this haunting question.

While many may know Margarita for her groundbreaking Italian concepts such as Cibo, Pepato, Lusso, and The Loggia, Margarita was by and large the Philippines’ staunchest culinary advocate. There was no opportunity she didn’t take to uplift the country and the people she loved so dearly. This passion coloured every fibre of her work, from pioneering modern Filipino cuisine through Grace Park and Margarita Signature Caterer to celebrating every win of those around her, big or small, as if they were her own. It’s these achievements that made her Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016, and the queen of our country’s F&B industry.

Throughout her decades-long career, Margarita crossed paths with countless chefs, restaurateurs, and food journalists around the Philippines and beyond. Always moving with grace and generosity, humility and heart, it would be no exaggeration to say she’s touched, if not changed the lives of these industry figures, to whom she was a peer, mentor, and beloved friend.

Below, members of the F&B community across Asia share their heartbreak and recall cherished memories as they mourn the loss of the inimitable Margarita Forés.

May & Jordy Navarra

Johanne Siy

Miko Calo

I’m still so stunned. Her passing is a great loss to our community... she wasn’t done yet, she still had her much-deserved flagship opening.

I’ve been admiring her since high school, I’ve always enjoyed her food. When I was starting out in the industry, I looked to her for inspiration. I even applied for a job with her!

To me, she represented grit, endurance, and possibilities in such a male-dominated industry. When I got older and started seeing her as a colleague and not “Tita Gaita”, I called her “Chef”. I’ve learned a lot from her in the past few years. She was so generous with her time and knowledge. She was so genuine and so real. Her passion for life was contagious. She was a pillar I could lean on.

I will forever be grateful for her, especially last year when she told me to stand my ground and fight back. I’m happy to have gotten to know her and to have been able to spend time with her recently.

See also: Flavours of My Youth: Margarita Forés revisits the dishes that shaped her childhood

ThiTid Tassanakajohn

Jorge Mendez

Chele González

When went to Bacolod in Negros, we didn’t know each other very well, but she literally opened her house to me. We stayed in her family home in Bacolod and we went all over Negros with Chin Chin (Ramon Uy Jr of Fresh Start Organics) to understand local produce and meet organic farmers. It was just an amazing trip of discovery. We were so amazed.

I also have beautiful memories with Margarita not only in Spain but also in Italy. We rented car to go around Italy, we were able to go to Milan, we stayed at a B&B. It was just so natural, and it flew by so quickly.

I'm so happy to be able to know this way not just through the Philippines but also through Italy. But more than anything, I think she’s really a part of Philippine history, for everything she’s done. She was the best ambassador for the culinary world. We deeply appreciate her for that, and many other things she’s done for the community that we probably don't even know of. That's her legacy—not only for the culinary world but also Filipino hospitality in general.

Read more: Filipino food—how can we go further? Margarita Forés, Chele González, and more speak out

Jae Pickrell and Bruce Ricketts

Angelo Comsti

Don Baldosano

Chef Margarita was an icon. It wasn’t just because of her great restaurants, but because of who she is and what she has done for the industry. Through her work, we Filipino chefs are now able to appreciate and see where our cuisine and ingredients can take us. Truly a trailblazer in our country’s culinary landscape.

Chef Gaita has always welcomed me, whether it was in the kitchen or her home showing off her vast collection of cookbooks and pepper mills. Never have I met someone as thoughtful and generous as her.

She will always be missed. She will always be the chef who put the Philippines on the map and shared Filipino hospitality throughout the world.

More from Tatler: Filipino cuisine: Do we really needed international recognition to push the industry forward?

Pam Pichaya Soontornyanakij

Colin Mackay

I’m still shocked and so saddened. Margarita was the most wonderful friend. Forever energetic, positive, and passionate about food and life. She amazed me with her drive and creativity. She was so full of flair and style that brought so much happiness to many.

I remember after foodie few days in Macau we made an impromptu stop in Hong Kong where we lunched well, shopped, and ultimately ended up at the Wan Chai wet market, both excited to buy huge amounts of seasonal hairy crabs to bring home. A few hours later, we were at the airport with too many fully stuffed shopping bags that were moving on their own with a distinct smell of the sea in the air! I was horrified, but we both smiled widely at the check-in staff and flashed our frequent flyer cards. Nothing was said, and that evening there was a crab feast back in Manila! We laughed so much on that trip. I will miss Margarita dearly.

See also: Tony Boy Escalante, Margarita Forés, Abba Napa & more: Meet 5 pillars of the Philippine dining scene

Jin Perez-Go

Pepper Teehankee

Quenee Vilar

I will always remember Tita Gaita as our queen and uniter. She’s a great role model to all, especially to the women who are striving hard.

As a chef and leader, she is well-loved. The staff will always share good praises about her because she treated her team like family. I would want to be like her too. She’s always making sure all the chefs are present at all the gatherings. She doesn’t seclude anyone and because of that, the culinary group became close.

She’s everyone’s number one supporter and that makes her special. Even when she was far away, she would always reply to me, especially when I needed something. She is everyone’s mother and that is why everyone loves her.

I will miss her—her laugh, her words of wisdom and love.

This is all I could say. I can’t concentrate or type anymore... sobrang nakakaiyak lang talaga (it’s really heartbreaking).

Read more: What advice would you give yourself?: We ask top chefs and restaurateurs

Richard Ekkebus

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