To mark Coco Chanel’s death anniversary on January 10, Tatler takes a closer look at how the visionary designer transformed faux pearls from costume jewellery into symbols of sophistication, reshaping the landscape of high fashion and jewellery forever
As Tatler Asia’s watch and jewellery editor, I am afforded the privilege—and immersed daily—in exploring the ever-evolving landscape of heirlooms and accessories that speak of important stories from the past. This continuous exposure has led me to think about the basic difference between fashion and style. Fashion is an ever-shifting sea of trends, but style … that’s an ocean of self-expression—personal, ineffable and creative. This contemplation of style’s eternal qualities brings to mind the legendary Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel.
Known for her pioneering spirit and innovative designs, Chanel not only changed how women dressed but also how they adorned themselves. Among her most significant contributions was the celebration of faux pearls and fine jewellery in an era dominated by high-end precious jewels. As we reflect on her legacy on her death anniversary on January 10, it becomes clear that Chanel’s audacity to blend real and fine jewellery was a radical departure that democratised luxury, making it accessible to a broader audience.
Chanel was always seen with her signature pearls (Photo: courtesy of Bettmann / Getty Images)
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Before Chanel’s intervention, jewellery was synonymous with wealth and exclusivity. The early 20th century saw a rigid hierarchy in fashion accessories, where only the affluent could afford genuine jewels crafted from precious metals and gemstones. According to historical accounts, it was common for wealthy women to own only a few significant pieces, often worn singularly to convey status. However, the Great Depression shifted societal norms and expectations. In this climate of economic hardship, Chanel introduced her iconic faux pearl necklaces—a statement that challenged the very fabric of jewellery conventions.
She believed that “a woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls”, signalling that adornment should be abundant and expressive rather than restrictive. Her designs featured layers of faux pearls alongside genuine pieces, creating a striking visual contrast. This blending of materials not only showcased her innovative spirit but also encouraged women to embrace their individuality without the constraints of traditional luxury.
