Why Siargao Is More Than Just Another Paradise, Eduardo H Zobel Recounts
The surf is what attracted me to Siargao in the first place. I’d been researching about the surf scene in the Philippines and the first thing that came up on my search engine was a breathtaking image of Cloud 9, Siargao’s most iconic wave.
I was around 20 years old and was attending university in California. At the time, I was spending my weekends and vacation days working at my friend’s hotel in Costa Rica. When I wasn’t at work, I was surfing in nearby waters. Thus, my addiction to the sport began to grow stronger by the second.
When my family in the Philippines asked me to visit one summer, I asked for one thing in exchange for giving up my vacation time and flying home—for the family to spend some time in Siargao.
So, the trip was planned, and before I knew it, I was waking up at sunrise at the Sagana Resort (recently renamed Alon Resort) right in front of a then crowd-free beach and a barrelling Cloud 9!
CAPTIVATED BY UNSPOILT NATURE AND INTERESTING PEOPLE
When I first arrived, I loved how raw and organic the island felt. It was still a wild and remote surfing destination that had not fallen victim to the “fast-food tourism” paradigm that has diluted the beauty of other islands.
It was obviously not a money-making enterprise: the only people who found their way there were hardcore surfers and travellers seeking a more natural environment. At the time, Siargao was inhabited by a mix of locals and Australian surfers who were bringing surf culture into the island. There was a very happy and symbiotic relationship between them: the Aussies loved the surf; the locals loved the riding culture; and the girls loved the travellers.
There was a beautiful energy being harnessed on the island by this fusion of cultures, and it felt like everyone involved was very aware of the magic of the place. It was definitely not a tourist destination—it was a travellers’ paradise
What stayed with me after that first trip were all the good times I had on the island: seeing my kid brother surfing the waves for the very first time; riding barrels in Cloud 9 at sunrise with just two other people in the water; waking up to love notes from anonymous admirers at my door; and having a blast with the resident Aussies both among the waves and in beachfront bars.
I also remember being put in my place by a kid, just six or seven years old, if I recall, at the Cloud 9 Pier. I bought a beautiful pin tail board from Jerry at Sagana Resort. It was perfect for the waves, but I still couldn’t clear the barrel. I just sat there, staring at the waves, and blaming the beautiful equipment I had purchased, when a local kid walked by carrying a board with a broken nose, only two and half fins, no leash and no wax. He proceeded to jump into the waves, clearing barrel after barrel with a style and ease that I’d never seen before. And all on a seriously beat-up board!
I learnt a lesson from that scene that continues to resonate with me: it doesn’t really matter how good your equipment is. It’s all about how blessed you feel with what you actually have and what you make out of it
UNITED IN KEEPING SIARGAO BEAUTIFUL
Siargao, being the raw diamond that it is, was starting to attract crowds of tourists. While this was good for business, was it good for the natural environment of the island?
Look at Boracay, for example. It went from being an immaculate paradise with white sand beaches and crystalline waters to become a devastated and highly unsustainable destination. They had to close it down for months due to the lack of infrastructure and the blatant abuse of the island and its resources. When Covid-19 hit, Siargao had not yet reached that level of uncontrolled mass development, but it was well on its way.
As horrible as the pandemic has been on a global scale, it gave our local community the chance to go back to a time when the island, the roads and the surf breaks were still pristine. It gave us all time and space to embrace the richness and beauty of the island. We were given the chance to create and strengthen bonds with each other, to create a community and awareness that we didn’t have the opportunity to do before.
I believe that the initiative to keep the island pristine comes from individuals who were either raised here or were blessed to be immersed in the community and natural environment of the island. It is the people who stay here when all the tourists leave and the parties have ended who see the aftermath of not taking care of our environment. Local folk who have been here forever know the difference between what the island was like before and how it might end up if the tourist scene gets oversaturated and the environment isn’t cared for. It is not only important for us to acknowledge this reality, but we also need to share this knowledge with visitors so that they can be aware of what impact they might have on this now highly-visible jewel of an island.
As a community, and particularly during the recent lockdown, we’ve had a lot of time to understand and practice sustainability. My Siargao Guide, an island tour agency, organises beach clean-ups and Siargao Wakepark takes care of the local village kids by inviting them to surf and enjoy delicious meals through fundraising initiatives.
An organisation called Lokal Lab has teamed up with the Bayatakan Farm Experience to develop sustainable infrastructure that will support farmers and provide organic product for the island community. This initiative has also been observed at an individual level in the backyards of local communities. Gardens have been popping up throughout the island, producing wholesome food and serving as a way for people to understand our interdependence with nature. The same initiative has also seen people jumping into the sea to catch their own fish, learning that the sea is a primary source of food, and there is also a need to care for and nurture our oceans.
COPING WITH THE CHALLENGES OF A NEW NORMAL
I have seen and experienced first-hand how my island brothers who are mostly reliant on island tourism to survive are struggling with their businesses. It has been really sad and difficult to watch cafes and projects close down.
Yet, the people of Siargao have stood up together as a community to support each other and ride out this pandemic with initiatives like community markets or the restaurant takeovers. Businesses and resorts like Harana or White Banana have opened their spaces for anyone who wants to share crafts or homemade food with the community. Some of the stronger restaurants like Wild or Bravo are supporting their peers by letting other chefs come take over their kitchens for amazing meals that double as special events. In truth, business owners remain strong in the hope that the island will reopen its doors to travellers soon, and that their work can grow and become more sustainable.
But having had the island and our community to ourselves over this past year has been magical. I can confidently say that we have become more than just a community: we are now a family.
COME WITH AN OPEN MIND—AND AN EQUALLY OPEN HEART
Based on my own experiences, I would advise anyone planning to travel or move to the island to be open-minded and ready to connect with a whole new and alternative way of living. Siargao is an experience that will make you question everything you have been doing up until now, how you’ve been doing it and why. Exploring the island for yourself opens your eyes, heart and mind to a whole new reality where you need to let go of many unnecessary, even superficial, “needs” and nurture yourself with the very essence of life through surf, yoga, creativity, good food and adventure.
Like I said before, Siargao isn’t just another island or a tourist’s dream destination. It’s a portal to a whole new way of living; a gateway to a deeply rich life that respects the environment and also offers many of the elements we need in order to thrive as human beings and stay happy.
The Best of the Island
No matter how you look at it, the beating heart of Siargao—both the island and the community within—is the surf. It is what has transformed us all, the element that keeps us focused, healthy, strong and in contact with our natural environment. But if you’re not keen on catching the waves, there is a whole buffet of experiences and activities available.
ISLAND ADVENTURES
• My Siargao Guide (MSG) is run by Javi Garcia and Dominique Francisco. It’s an adventurous tour agency that shares the hidden gems around the area that made them fall in love with each other and the island, creating together the most memorable experiences for both your friends and family during your visit to Siargao.
• Siargao Wakepark by Tom Soupart is a great choice for those into sports. Just ten minutes away from the main strip of General Luna, it offers wakeboarding fun for all ages and levels, and doubles as an amazing trek through the island’s back roads.
• Hook Pro Siargao in the nearby town of Pilar is where Mauro Agustines takes hard-core fishermen out for big game fishing tours on his boats. Lucky fishing enthusiasts also get to enjoy Mauro’s amazing Japanese cooking skills at the docks where he prepares the daily catch.
LOCAL EATS
• Shaka in front of the Cloud 9 surf break helps you get your day to a healthy start with freshly prepared smoothies and açai bowls.
• Bulan Villas is where you can find molto authentico pizzas baked by pizzaiolo and proprietor Gabriele Quadelli—and I must say that they’re some of the best pies in the country!
• Hostelito is the go-to spot for excellent tapas and drinks. The Brie and bacon croquettes are delectable, while those with heartier appetites should go for the slow-cooked barbecue ribs.
• Harry’s Corner is where you should go for an aprèssurf burger and great music. Along with classic beef and chicken sliders, they also offer innovative treats like adobo sandwiches in freshly baked brioche.
ARTS AND CRAFTS
• The Siargao Artisans workshop developed and guided by Nina Paradies has been a godsend in that it produces artisanal furniture and accents that can easily rival anything made in other cultural hubs like Bali.
• Golden Monstera in the back roads of Malinao is where jewellery artists Jenn Fernandez and Daniel Alfaro offer stunning pieces that combine local motifs with a luxurious feel.
• The products created and marketed by artisan Summer Puertollano under the Para sa Diwa brand include products that one will have a hard time living without after trying them, including her homemade moon-charged mineral bath soaps and tempting baked goods like her heavenly devil bars.
NIGHTLIFE AND MUSIC
Aside from all the daytime activities and crafts the island community offers, Siargao has become home to some of the best entertainers and musicians, giving birth to one of the best nightlife venues anywhere in the Philippines. Whether you’re into hip-hop, jazz or live acoustic music, you will find it here on the island!
Recently, we’ve been blessed with the presence of LA-based Pinoy hip-hop musician and producer Chris Alfaro (aka Free the Robots) who isn’t just playing and spreading his kind of music and wisdom with us, but has also found refuge on the island during the pandemic and found plenty of inspiration for his latest record, Datu.
- Photography Eduardo H Zobel