We explore the many ways to embrace cacao, from sweet to savoury
From savoury to sweet, cacao is used by chefs and chocolatiers to beguile the senses and satisfy the palate. A striking chocolate dish is different to every chef and diner. But like any favourite bite, it should be beautifully balanced and, ideally, textural too. From main courses to sweet finishes, excellently made chocolate creations allow the cacao itself to shine while complementing the other featured ingredients. Find out what these chefs and chocolatiers have to say about the perfect chocolate dish:
Nicco Santos, executive chef/owner of Celera
Chocolate is often associated with sweets, but its versatility knows no bounds. I think to create a great chocolate dish, it’s nice to balance its richness with a bit of restraint and more thought, like using chocolate with unusual flavour combinations and textures to create a harmonious, indulgent experience. I also enjoy working with chocolate in savoury dishes, where it adds depth, complexity, and richness to sauces, marinades, and purées.
In Celera, we use chocolate primarily as a vessel for flavour. One of my favourite ways to use chocolate is cooking dark chocolate with black garlic because it complements its bold and bittersweet notes. We fold in dark chocolate and black garlic in a purée for our lamb and with caramel for our bonbons. We also pair dark chocolate with fresh lavender in our tart to extend a feeling of being hugged since its flavour lends a very soothing nose and finish. It’s our subtle way of giving thanks for dining with us.
Ines Castañeda, culinary director of Roots
For us at Roots, a great chocolate dish is one that truly showcases the essence of cacao, allowing its textures to reveal their natural acidity and floral notes. Over the years, we’ve come to see cacao as more than just a key ingredient in chocolate-making, after much knowledge exchange with producers in the Philippines and Peru. We now appreciate it as a resilient, multifaceted fruit—one that offers complexity far beyond sweetness, expanding our understanding of its full potential. We highlight cacao in two signature dishes: one savoury, through our mole, and one sweet, in our chocolate dessert.
See also: A taste of the unknown: Asia’s next culinary capitals